RV Water Heater Repair: Troubleshooting Gas, Electric, Smells, and Leaks

RV water heater repair usually starts with a cold shower and a question: is this something I can fix, or do I need a technician? Fortunately, many problems have simple causes, such as a closed gas valve, a tripped breaker or a switch in the wrong position. This guide walks through safe checks for an RV water heater not working on gas or electric, plus fixes for smells, leaks and anode rods, based on manufacturer documentation. However, anything involving gas lines, burners or wiring belongs with a qualified technician.

Last reviewed and updated: September 30, 2026. Written by Jeremy Jarvis.

Safety first before any RV water heater repair

RV water heaters combine propane, electricity and very hot water, so safety comes before troubleshooting. Suburban’s operation guide lists clear steps if you smell gas.

1. Evacuate everyone from the RV.
2. Shut off the gas supply at the tank or source.
3. Do not touch electrical switches, and do not use a phone or radio inside the vehicle.
4. Do not start the engine or the generator.
5. Contact a gas supplier or qualified service technician, or the fire department if you cannot reach one.
6. Do not turn the gas back on until the leak has been repaired.

In addition, the guide warns that water heater surfaces can become very hot during use and that you should turn off power at the breaker and let the appliance cool before cleaning. It also states that repairs and maintenance should be performed by a dealer or qualified technician. So, treat the checks below as owner-level diagnosis, and hand anything beyond them to a professional.

How an RV water heater works before you start RV water heater repair

Most RVs use a small tank water heater mounted behind an access door on the outside wall. Many models heat with propane, 120-volt electricity, or both. On gas, a direct spark ignition system lights the burner automatically when you flip a switch inside the RV. On electric, a heating element in the tank does the work when shore or generator power is available.

Tank materials differ by brand, and this matters for maintenance. Suburban tank water heaters use a porcelain-lined steel tank protected by a replaceable anode rod. By contrast, Dometic and Atwood water heaters use aluminum tanks and, according to Dometic, do not use anode rods at all. Knowing which you have is the first step in any RV water heater repair.

RV water heater not working: symptom checklist

Start with the symptom, then work through the likely causes from simplest to most complex. The table below summarizes the common ones.

RV water heater not working on gas

Gas problems are the most common reason for a cold tank, so most RV water heater repair starts here. Work through these checks in order.

Confirm propane is reaching the heater

First, check that the propane tank has gas and its valve is open. Next, light a stove burner. If the stove will not light either, the problem is the gas supply, not the water heater. After refilling or changing tanks, Suburban notes that the first start-up may need several ignition cycles before air is purged from the gas lines, so a couple of failed attempts is normal.

Check the switch and reset a lockout

According to Suburban’s guide, when you switch gas operation on, the system tries to light. If the burner does not light, it tries two more times before going into lockout, and a red reset light stays on. To reset, turn the switch off, wait five seconds, and turn it back on. The guide also notes a 15 second purge before each spark cycle, so give it time before assuming it has failed.

Check battery voltage

The ignition board runs on 12-volt power. If your house battery is low, the igniter may click weakly or not at all. Therefore, charge the battery or connect to shore power and try again.

Look at the outside door

Suburban advises checking the screen in the water heater door to make sure nothing is blocking the flow of combustion and ventilating air. Insects and debris can block airflow and stop the burner from lighting or staying lit. Also, if you see soot anywhere on the water heater, the guide says to shut it down immediately and contact a dealer or qualified technician, because soot signals incomplete combustion.

RV water heater not working on electric

Electric heating depends on 120-volt power, so RV water heater repair on the electric side starts there. Confirm you are plugged into shore power or running the generator, and check that the water heater breaker in your RV’s panel is on. Then find the electric switch. On some Suburban models, the guide explains, the electric element switch sits behind the water heater’s outside door, in the lower left corner of the control housing, while other models use a switch plate inside the RV. Some models have both, and both need to be on.

If power is present and the switches are on but the water never heats, the heating element or a control may have failed. One common cause is running the element with no water in the tank. Suburban warns that operating the water heater without water may damage the tank or controls and that such damage is not covered by its limited warranty. Replacing an element involves draining the tank and working with 120-volt wiring, so it is a job for a technician unless you are trained in RV electrical repair.

Hot water that is not hot enough

Lukewarm water is one of the easiest RV water heater repair jobs, because it has a few simple causes. The most common is a bypass valve left in the bypass position after winterizing, which sends cold water around the tank instead of through it. Check the valves on the back of the water heater, usually reached from inside a cabinet, and return them to normal operation. Next, remember that RV tanks are small, so long showers and dishwashing back to back can use up the hot water. Running both gas and electric at the same time, where your model allows it, can speed recovery. If the water stays lukewarm with the system working normally, a technician can check the thermostat and controls.

Why RV hot water smells like rotten eggs

A rotten-egg smell from the hot water is common and, according to Suburban’s guide, not a service problem. The guide explains that many water supplies contain enough sulfur to produce the odor, which is unpleasant but not harmful. Its recommended fix is to chlorinate the water system: add about six ounces of household liquid bleach for each 10 gallons in the water tank, run the chlorinated water through every faucet until you smell chlorine, let the RV sit for a few days, and then flush the system with fresh water until the chlorine is gone.

If the smell comes back, Suburban suggests flushing again and replacing the anode rod as needed. The guide also mentions that a filtering system that removes chlorine can help. Our guide to choosing an RV water filter covers the options.

Leaks and a dripping relief valve

Every tank water heater has a pressure and temperature relief valve that opens if pressure or temperature gets too high. As water heats, it expands, and some occasional dripping from the valve can happen. However, a steady drip that will not stop, or water leaking from the tank itself, needs attention. First, check that the anode rod or drain plug is tight and sealed. Next, consult your manual about the air pocket some tanks rely on to absorb expansion. If the valve keeps leaking, have it replaced by a technician, and never cap or plug a relief valve.

Anode rods: which RV water heaters need them

This is where brand matters most in RV water heater repair, because the wrong part can damage the tank. Good RV water heater repair always starts with the model plate.

• Suburban: the tank is protected by a magnesium or aluminum anode rod that wears away instead of the tank. Suburban recommends replacing it yearly under normal use, and when consumption or weight loss is greater than 75 percent. Water high in iron or sulfate wears anodes faster.
• Dometic and Atwood: the tanks are aluminum, and Dometic states they do not use anode rods. Dometic also warns that aftermarket anode rods can damage the tank and void the warranty.

For Suburban models, the guide says the anode is reached from the front of the water heater with a 1-1/16 socket, and that a thread sealant approved for potable water, such as Teflon tape, must be applied to the threads when you reinstall it. It also warns that operating without proper anode protection shortens tank life and voids the tank warranty. So, turn off gas and power, relieve water pressure by opening a faucet, and let the tank cool before you remove the anode.

Flushing sediment and winterizing

Sediment builds up in the bottom of a tank over time. Suburban explains that it insulates the water from the burner, slows heating and can overheat the tank bottom, which shortens tank life and lowers efficiency. Flushing the tank with a tank rinser or fresh water when you drain it helps keep sediment down.

Before freezing weather, drain the water heater. Suburban’s steps are to turn off electrical power, shut off gas, turn off the water pump, open hot and cold faucets, and remove the anode rod to drain the tank. If your RV has a bypass kit, use it to isolate the water heater when you add antifreeze, because the guide warns that antifreeze can be very corrosive to the anode rod. Without a bypass, the guide suggests removing the anode for the winter and installing a 3/4-inch drain plug. Then, when you return, refill the tank completely and bleed the air from a hot faucet before relighting or turning on electric power.

When RV water heater repair needs a technician

Owner checks solve many problems, but some jobs are not DIY. Call a qualified RV technician if you smell gas, see soot, hear the burner struggle, find a leak you cannot trace, or need to replace an element, thermostat, gas valve or control board. Warranty terms matter too. For example, Suburban’s two-year limited warranty excludes normal maintenance and damage from improper service, and it tells owners not to pay a service agency for warranty repairs before confirming the agency is a recommended service center. Keep your model and serial numbers handy when you call.

Repairs on the road can be expensive and slow, which is why an emergency fund matters. Our RV Emergency Fund Calculator helps you plan for surprise repair bills.

RV water heater repair and maintenance checklist

• Check the outside door screen for insects and debris before each trip.
• Look for soot or corrosion around the burner area.
• Inspect and replace the anode on Suburban models as recommended.
• Flush sediment when you drain the tank.
• Drain or bypass the water heater before freezing weather.
• Refill and bleed air before turning the heater back on.
• Test gas and electric operation before a long trip.

With regular care, most RV water heaters give years of reliable hot water. For more maintenance and gear guidance, see our RV Gear hub and the RV Starter Gear Checklist.

Frequently asked questions about RV water heater repair

Why is my RV water heater not working on gas?

Common causes are a closed gas valve or empty tank, air in the gas line after refilling, low battery voltage, a blocked door screen, or an ignition lockout. Suburban’s guide says the system tries to light up to three times and then locks out; switch it off, wait five seconds, and switch it back on to reset.

Why is my RV water heater not working on electric?

Check that you have shore or generator power, that the water heater breaker is on, and that the electric switch is on. On some Suburban models the electric switch is behind the outside water heater door. A heating element can also fail, especially if it was ever powered with an empty tank.

Why does my RV hot water smell like rotten eggs?

Suburban’s guide says the smell usually comes from sulfur in the water supply and is not harmful, only unpleasant. Its fix is to sanitize the system with chlorine bleach, flush it thoroughly, and replace the anode rod if the smell continues.

Does my RV water heater need an anode rod?

It depends on the brand. Suburban tank water heaters use a replaceable magnesium or aluminum anode rod. Dometic and Atwood water heaters use aluminum tanks and do not use anode rods, and Dometic warns that aftermarket anodes can damage the tank.

Can I run my RV water heater without water in it?

No. Suburban warns that operating the water heater without water in the tank may damage the tank or controls, and that this damage is not covered by its limited warranty. Fill the tank and bleed the air from a hot faucet before turning it on.

Sources and how we researched this guide

This guide is research-based. We did not repair water heaters for this article. Steps and safety guidance come from the Suburban Tank Water Heaters Operation and Maintenance Guide and Dometic’s water heater support documentation. Your model may differ, so follow your own owner’s manual, and have a qualified RV technician handle any gas, burner, or wiring repair. Found something out of date? Tell us and we will check it against the source.

• Suburban Tank Water Heaters Operation and Maintenance Guide (PDF)
• Suburban: replacement anode rods
• Dometic support: using after-market anode rods
• NFPA 1192: standard on recreational vehicles

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